Black Pudding and Foie Gras Review
Black Pudding & Foie Gras is Michelin Star chef Andrew Pern's multi award-winning culinary autobiography. It strikes the perfect balance between showcasing many of his mouth-watering dishes and the heart-warming account of Andrew's fascinating life around food at The Star Inn in North Yorkshire. Its much more than a cookery book, it tells Andrew's story, delves deep into his philosophy on food, introduces you to his local suppliers and provides a captivating and humorous insight into the life of a family that run a successful British food institution. By the time you've finished the book, its very clear that these are the thoughts of someone who views food and cooking as a way of life, and not just a job. The recipes come divided into sections that reflect the menu as opposed to the ingredients and give you all the knowledge to recreate some of his best loved dishes. Starters include beer-battered Scarborough Woof - a much loved fish from the North Sea coast; butter-roast Sand Hutton Asparagus and pressed Terrine of Yorkshire Gammon. Main courses feature traditionally garnished North Yorkshire Moors Grouse complete with Streaky Bacon, Bread Sauce and homemade Redcurrant Jelly; Charles Ashbridge's Gloucester Old Spot Suckling Pig with Black Pudding and Cider and Hartlepool-landed Halibut with steamed marsh Samphire. Also on offer are comfort foods such as steamed Steak and Kidney Pudding with Oysters and braised neck of heather-fed Moorland Mutton with Pearl Barley. Puddings again reflect local produce and combine the more modern with the old traditions - think fresh Lemon Tart, Pimms No1 Jelly and rich dark Chocolate and Orange Tart before moving on to Ampleforth Abbey Apple Tarte Tatin, baked Ginger Parkin and steamed Ale Cake. Andrew reflects that puddings were never a strong point, the household much preferring cheese and the section entitled 'Cheese Counter' gives such delights as grilled Wensleydale Buck Rarebit with Ox Tongue and Lincolnshire Poacher with 'Felixkirk' Fennel. Cheese is followed by an enticing chapter entitled 'Drink's Cabinet' featuring recipes for home-made liqueurs such as Rhubarb Schnapps, Damson Vodka and spiced Cider, before you open up the 'Chef's Pantry' and discover the essential stocks and accompaniments needed to complete the recipes. The book's luxurious, tactile suede cover with embossed title gives way to 400 beautifully designed pages containing stunning photography, both in black and white and colour, by award winning photographers Antonio Olmos and Sam Bailey. There is nothing glossy about this book, it is just a rich reflection on the life and food of one of Britain's brightest young chefs.
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